Sorry I've been posting so infrequently this last year. I haven't been reading much these last few months -- been busy with so many different new things.
But I wanted to write just a bit about Eddie Would Go: The Story of Eddie Aikau, Hawaiian Hero and Pioneer of Big Wave Surfing by Stuart Holmes Coleman, which I just finished reading. It's an interesting look at the life of a true Hawaiian water man, whose life was tragically cut short in a heroic attempt to save his friends.
The story of Eddie is so interesting (he is the namesake of the legendary surf contest held in his name and sponsored by Quiksilver each year), but the writing of this book is kind of terrible. Still, worth a read since there are so few books about Eddie.
